Picture this: a grueling ocean voyage spanning weeks, all in the name of cricket's ultimate rivalry – the Ashes series that pits England against Australia in a battle of wills and wickets across vast distances. It's a story that captures the romance of the game like no other, but here's where it gets controversial: was this old-school approach to touring a brilliant way to forge unbreakable team bonds, or just an outdated hassle in an era of jet planes and instant travel? Dive in, because this tale from the 1962-63 Ashes tour reveals secrets most people miss about how the game used to be played – and debated.
'From the Ashes' is our exciting series of articles and podcasts that peel back the layers of cricket's most intense and iconic Test matches. Tune into full chats on BBC Sounds, leading up to live ball-by-ball updates for the opening Test clash between Australia and England in Perth on November 21st.
The sheer expanse between these cricketing giants – over 10,000 miles apart, like a pilgrimage to the other side of the planet – fuels the magic of the Ashes. For Ben Stokes and England's squad heading Down Under in 2025-26, the Aussie welcome was fiery right from touchdown, with the captain's face plastered on the front page of The West Australian in Perth.
At least today's cricketers enjoy top-tier travel perks: plush airport lounges, business-class seats, and beds in the sky (though for Mark Wood, a notorious nervous flyer, those airborne naps might not come easy). But back in the day, for English players venturing to Australia – and vice versa – it meant sea travel on ships, enduring endless weeks afloat.
A modern pro would likely shudder at the idea, but David Larter, who was part of England's final boat-bound squad on the 1962-63 tour, calls it a 'dream' journey. Now 85, he shares with BBC Sport: 'Being on a massive ocean liner offered such a rich life onboard. The Marylebone Cricket Club, wisely, covered first-class fares, mixing us with wealthy sun-seekers and retirees. It felt otherworldly.'
This wasn't just travel; it was team-building gold. 'By Perth, we were a tight-knit group, moving in sync,' Larter reflects. Even this tour blended old and new – they flew to Aden before boarding the ship The Canberra for the rest of the voyage, clocking 'just' 10 days at sea.
Larter, at just 22, stood tall at 6ft 7in as a fast bowler who could make the ball bounce unpredictably. He'd just featured in the final Gentlemen v Players match that summer and debuted in Test cricket against Pakistan. Fresh from his Northamptonshire first-class start two years prior – after leaving a desk job in insurance – he joined a star-studded squad under Ted Dexter, including legends like Colin Cowdrey, Ray Illingworth, Fred Trueman, and Brian Statham.
England aimed to reclaim the Ashes after a 2-1 home defeat in 1961. Astonishingly, they assembled in London over two months early, in late September, before the first Test on November 30th.
The adventure began with a flight to Aden, where traders swarmed tourists for deals. In Larter's biography by Richard Sayer, there's a funny anecdote: ex-BBC cricket voice Brian Johnston playfully haggled for one shoe instead of a pair with a salesman.
Onboard, the big question was how to pass the time. For Larter, it was all about the feasts: 'I ate like never before or since – spectacular, sustained meals. The crew adored us, wheeling out trolleys of delicacies, knowing we'd devour them.'
With plenty of good food and a series looming, fitness was key. 'Morning workouts, badminton on deck, lifting weights, and jumping exercises kept us sharp,' Larter says. Management pushed for more, enlisting Olympic silver medalist Gordon Pirie (from the 1956 Melbourne 5,000m event) to lead.
'He showed up in shorts and suggested jogging laps around the ship,' Larter recalls. 'It's a fair distance on a big liner, but I followed orders.' Not everyone agreed. Trueman, the outspoken bowler who'd just delivered over 1,100 overs that season, protested loudly.
'Fighting fit comes from bowling, not boat-running,' Trueman declared, per Larter. 'After all those overs, I'm not doing it.' And just like that, Pirie's plan fizzled. And this is the part most people miss: was Trueman's defiance a bold stand for common sense, or did it undermine team unity? Cricket history buffs still argue – some say it showed true grit, others that it could have cost England an edge.
For Larter, a newbie abroad, the ship was a social hub. Up top, he mingled with elite passengers; below deck, with Poms migrating for fresh starts. 'The warmest welcomes were downstairs from young emigrants chasing new lives. Fascinating chats, and plenty of bars for a quiet beer,' he notes.
The route wasn't direct; they detoured to Sri Lanka for a Colombo tune-up. 'Ted Dexter sent me to open the bowling,' Larter says. 'I marked my run, charged in, and face-planted – twice! My sea legs were off; land didn't cooperate after the boat.'
Dexter pulled him off, and Barry Knight finished. The British Army hosted them royally, with a beach barbecue. 'From a Suffolk village to Sri Lankan shores with great folks – mind-blowing,' Larter marvels.
Another eye-opener: the tour manager, Bernard Fitzalan-Howard, the 16th Duke of Norfolk. In cricket's social era, managers were ambassadors – shaking hands, giving speeches, keeping order.
'You respected his noble lineage,' Larter explains. 'Morning greetings were 'Your Grace,' introductions 'His Grace,' then 'Sir' all day – like military protocol.'
Yet, the Duke surprised with his cricket savvy, hosting dinners for players in pairs and navigating high-society circles. But controversy brewed; Trueman griped about distractions like the Duke's racing interests, Reverend David Sheppard's sermons, and Susan Dexter's fashion flair dominating headlines.
'Papers fixated on horse races, preachings, and outfits, not cricket,' Trueman complained. Was this elitism enhancing the tour's prestige, or detracting from focus? Many wonder if such 'extras' diluted the team's edge – a debate that echoes in modern sports management.
This week, England faces one warm-up three-dayer against the Lions in Perth. In 1962, they squeezed nine matches across five states in six weeks before the Tests. Over five months Down Under, they played 22 games plus five Tests, touring every corner.
Larter embraced it all, surviving on £1,250 (over £23,000 today). 'People offered jobs left and right; I nearly relocated,' he laughs. No homesick calls – just airmail and old Telegraph papers. Christmas? Dinner on the beach, Aussie-style celebrations mirroring home but with a twist.
Still, his Ashes stint was bittersweet. Suited for Aussie pitches, he didn't get a Test nod, overshadowed by Trueman and Statham. England led 1-0 after Melbourne but drew level at 1-1, Ashes staying Down Under.
'Disappointing,' Larter admits, yet opportunities beckoned. They extended to New Zealand for six months total; he shone in all three Tests, snaring seven wickets in Auckland. England swept 3-0. 'Pleased to prove myself,' he says.
Home by late March, county season looming, Larter earned 10 Test caps over three years. On the 1965-66 Ashes tour, all-plane this time, an ankle injury sidelined him from Tests and ended his career. He shunned coaching for his dad's trucking firm, turning 'anti-cricket' before settling in mid-Wales with wife Thelma.
His mementos: ceremonial cap, team photo, ship slides. 'Unbelievable experience – literally, you couldn't foresee it, but it was,' he reflects. 'Minus not playing, a fantastic time.'
The Ashes: Australia v England, November 21, 2025 – January 7, 2026. Catch in-play clips and highlights on iPlayer, BBC Sport site and app. Ball-by-ball on BBC Sounds, Radio 5 Sports Extra, plus live text, features, and analysis on the BBC Sport website and app.
What do you think? Did boat journeys really build stronger Ashes teams, or is modern air travel the smarter choice? Was Trueman right to rebel against the running routine, or should he have towed the line? And in today's cricket, do fancy tour managers and celebrity entourages help or hinder? Share your views in the comments – agree, disagree, or add your own Ashes travel tales!
